Decorative Concrete Care

Cleaning Specifications for Stained Concrete Floors

  • Sweep daily, preferably with a dust mop or a fine bristle push broom.
  • Mop spills from floor using neutral cleaner, or even water alone. When required, mop or scrub the entire floor.
  • Use a CLEAN MOP and CLEAN WATER to prevent smearing.
  • Use a neutral cleaner at the specified dilutions. Neutral, indicting a PH of around 7. Precautions should be taken to research your chemical provider. Many cleaners state they are neutral, when in fact; they can be far from a PH of7.
  • Avoid all contact with ACID. Avoid any detergents containing Hydroxides or Sulfates. Concrete floors are high in calcium and lime content, both of which will etch when exposed to alkaline or acid.
  • Except in the case of containing oil spills or other types of fluids, sweeping compounds containing wax, paraffin or petroleum byproducts should be avoided.
  • To enhance appearance and durability, it is recommended that the floor be cleaned with a red pad using neutral cleaner, then apply three coats of a polymer based floor finish. Burnish with high-speed buffer to maintenance. When stripping is required, use a mild stripper and a blue pad (never black). Reapply polymer based floor finish as needed.

You can never sweep your stained concrete floor often enough, as dirt and foreign particles act as abrasives. By removing these abrasives, we decrease the threat of deterioration to our floor’s shine while protecting the low maintenance characteristics of a concrete floor.


  • Do not use any liquid curing compound to retard water evaporation from the slab. Anything oil or waxy completely blocks penetration of acid stain. Of course, use no sealers.
  • Use normal, moderate troweling. Do not allow burnishing with metal trowels and avoid the use of a power troweling machine. If slab is too smooth, the pores are closed and staining becomes spotty.
  • You will need to protect the slab from tar and paint overspray or plaster residue. Let slab cure for at least two weeks, and then lay down plastic. Wrinkle the plastic in a random manner, so there are not long, straight folds running across the floors. Every light-dark difference in the concrete will show through our translucent stains. Do not worry about rain spots; we have found that these give a natural looking mottled effect.
  • When covering the slab, do not use sticky tape to hold the covering down. This leaves dark, blocky marks in me concrete, which are permanent. You might place 2x4s or chipboard down to weight the plastic.
  • Framer’s markings can be impossible to remove if they are done with red chalk or crayon. The best thing for us is blue or white chalk, with hairspray used as a fixative. Even pencil and felt-tip pen can be indelible if left on for months. Wash off or sand these as soon as possible, if they are applied to the slab.
  • The acid stain can be wicked up and turn wood black, so it is good to have wood doorframes painted or sealed before floor staining begins. (Have the painter use brown paper below to catch drippy sealer. It looks invisible until floor staining begins). If kitchen islands and cabinets must be installed before floor is stained, it is a good idea not to install the kickboards along me bottom edge until after the floors are done. If hardwood floor areas are going to abut the acid-stained floors, the staining should come before laying the wood floors.

Discovering the Beauty of Polished Concrete
There is a growing trend to install natural stone in commercial and residential structures. Now there is yet another new and exciting application for “stone” polished concrete. For years flooring professionals have offered their customers sealers, coverings, urethanes, and epoxies for their floor surfaces. These limited life coatings require high maintenance and continual reapplication. This can be labor intensive and expensive. The solution – bring out the “natural” beauty of concrete. Why Polish Concrete?

  • Gives your concrete a marble-like luster Choice of 3 levels of sheen
  • Level I-hard-shell satin finish
  • Level II-hard-shell medium sheen Level III-light reflective mirror finish
  • Brightens the Concrete
  • 30% increase in reflectivity
  • Eliminates the need for coatings
    Protects and shines like coatings, without the maintenance and replacement hassles.
  • Reduces the need for maintenance
    Concrete dusting is eliminated. Normal cleaning maintains sheen and appearance. Protects concrete from stains, spills and chemical attacks.
  • Makes the concrete more durable
    Reacts chemically with your concrete to harden and densify it. Is not adversely affected by ultraviolet light or water spray.
  • Maintains floor safety
  • Increases the lifespan of the concrete
  • Costs Less
  • More cost-effective than problematic overlays of repeated applications of limited-life coating systems.

Exceeds OSHA and ADA recommendations for coefficient of friction.